Our final leg of the Northern Territory  took us south from Darwin to Berry Springs, Litchfield National Park and Leliyn, Nitmiluk. In this land the horizons were dotted with columns of smoke from Wurrgeng (cold weather) burning, the haunting screams of curlew pierced the nights, and we found relief from the heat in specially designated waterholes. At Katherine we headed west and passed the beautiful Gregory National Park and Victoria River.

Darwin from East Point

The Lake, Berry Springs

Litchfield National Park: Magnetic, north-south pointing termite mounds (with cathedral mounds in background); Wangi Falls, View from top of Tolmer Falls, Savanna woodland, Florence Falls.

Leliyn (Edith Falls)

Victoria River and Gregory National Park (Judbarra)

Crossing the East Alligator River from Kakadu to Arnhem Land took us over Cahill’s Crossing and into an ancient rocky landscape with its floodplains and billabongs.  We visited the town of Oenpelli before making our way to the surrounding sandstone outcrops, aboriginal wall art and Inkiyu Billabong. The tidal river was up on our return journey where dozens of crocodiles were lining up to catch fish going over the crossing.  As we headed out of Kakadu, we stopped at the Mamukala Billabong.

Near Oenpelli, Arnhem Land

Rock art sites

Inkiyu Billabong, Arnhem Land

Cahill’s Crossing, East Alligator River

Mamukala Billabong, Kakadu

You don’t have to spend much time in Kakadu before understanding why it deserves world heritage listing. It’s home to hundreds of different types of birds, thousands of plants, and lots of crocodiles and other animals. Over half of the park is managed by its traditional owners, the Bininj, or Mungguy peoples. We observed much wildlife on a sunrise cruise across the river and flood plains of Yellow Water (Ngurrungurrudjba).

Plumed Whistling Ducks

Buffalo

Cattle Egret

Sea Eagle

Black-necked Stork (Jabiru)

Darter

Pheasant Coucal

Salt water crocodile

Night Heron

Egret

Comb crested Jacana with chicks

Crocodile eating fish

Azure Kingfisher

A drive east of Katherine took us to the magnificent Nitmiluk National Park and gorge. A dinner cruise along the gorge and hike to Butterfly Gorge showcased some of the area’s beautiful landscape. The national park was returned to the traditional owners, the Jawoyn people in 1989.

Located by the Esley National Park, Mataranka  is famous for its natural thermal pools and as the setting for Jeanie Gunn’s We of the Never Never. We enjoyed the tropical bush, walking the river trails and taking a dip in the Bitter Springs thermal pool.

Bitter Springs

Little Roper River

Elsey National Park

Blue-faced honeyeater

Wallaroo

Recommended to us by fellow travellers, Longreach Waterhole was not on our maps or signposted from the main road. Just outside of Elliott, it’s free style campsites provided a tranquil setting with many species of birds.

Darters

Pelicans

Magpie geese

Rainbow bee-eater

Whistling kite

South of Tennant Creek we stopped to look at the Devil’s Marbles, or Karlu Karlu. A significant meeting and dreaming site for Kaytetye, Warumungu, Anmatyerr and Alyawarr people, these huge, rounded granite rocks have been shaped by rainwater over millions of years. Further to the north the smaller, granite Pebbles, or Kunjarra remain a special place for Warumungu.

Devil’s Marbles (Karlu, Karlu)

The Pebbles (Kunjarra)

The West MacDonnell Ranges National Park features many gorges, waterholes and chasms. While staying at Alice Springs, we spent most of our time exploring these, including the ochre pits still used by the traditional owners, the Arrente. As we moved around we came by a couple of hikers walking the 223km Larapinta Trail. Our bike ride from the John Flynn grave site to Simpsons Gap was a real highlight, taking us past rocky landscapes, native birds and a roving dingo.

MacDonnell Ranges

John Flynn grave

Bike path

Simpsons Gap

Standley Chasm

Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ochre pits

Ormiston Gorge